Faroe Islands 2018 (#3)

Part 3: August 24th – 25th

By Watracz Is Traveling

June 7^th, 2020

Day 6: Kallur lighthouse, Kópakonan, Lake Toftir, Gjógv

August 24th, 2018

Kallur Lighthouse

The trail to the lighthouse is about a kilometer and a half, and it takes me about 45 minutes to walk it. Behind the lighthouse is a cliff with the best view, but getting there is risky in poor weather. It’s steep and slippery. One misstep, and you can butt-slide down a dozens-of-meters-high cliff into the ocean. So naturally, I have to go there.

I start on my way back around 11 am. My pants are wet and there’s water in my boots. This would be a nightmare on a motorbike, but the car’s A/C saves the day. I drive south from Trøllanes to Kalsoy’s largest village, Mikladalur, which has about 30 residents.

Mikladalur

The village’s main attraction is the statue of Kópakonan, the Seal Woman. The legend has it that once a year, seals living in the bay nearby would shed their animal skins and turn into beautiful women. A man tricked one of them and hid the seal skin of his beloved, thus making her remain in human form and marry him.

Around 14 I start heading back to Klaksvík. I buy some food at the supermarket (91 DKK), fill the car up, and drive to Eystutoy, to Lake Toftir by the village of Runavík.

Lake Toftir

It’s the fourth largest natural lake in the Faroe Islands. It’s known mainly for how many bird species live here. A nice scenic route goes around the lake through a number of small villages.

Today’s my last chance to climb the highest mountain, because tomorrow’s the day I’m going back to Poland. I set my satnav to Slættaratindur and drive north.

Unfortunately, the top of the mountain is covered with fog and you can’t see a thing. I drive to Gjógv, to the parking lot by the hotel where I stayed the day before. I get the hotel’s WiFi, so I check in for my flight, check the weather, and head back to Slættaratindur to wait until the morning. Maybe the weather will improve overnight. I wrap myself in the sleeping bag in the back seat and go to sleep.

Day 7: Tórshavn, Mulafossur Waterfall

August 25th, 2018

I wake up at dawn. The fog’s still there, so I go back to sleep. At 7 am nothing seems to improve, either. Well, looks like I’m not making it to the top this time. I set my satnav to Tórshavn, the capital of the islands, 60 kilometers south.

Tórshavn

In Danish, Tórshavn is “Thor’s harbor”, devoted to the god of storm and thunder. Only about 13,000 people live in the capital, making it a rather small town. Still, it has a large port and interesting architecture in the old town.

Old town and the Tinganes peninsula

The Tinganes peninsula is the oldest part of town. It’s now the seat of the Faroese parliament. Narrow streets and wooden buildings with stone bases make it seem like time stopped a few decades ago.

The port

Ferries, sailboats, ships, boats, container ships...

I finish sightseeing the capital around noon and set off towards the island of Vágar. From the main road, I turn towards the village of Norðradalur. The island of Koltur is visible off on the horizon, inhabited by a single person.

I leave Streymoy and go to see the Mulafossur waterfall before I leave the islands altogether. On the way, I stop by the island of Tindhólmur. The island has five peaks: Ytsti, Arni, Lítli, Breiði, and Bogdi. The tallest one is 262 m a.s.l.

Gásadalur

This time, I’m not taking any photos by the waterfall; I just sit back and enjoy the views. I already know I’m going to miss the Faroe Islands and I’ll keep wanting to come back. There are very few places where so many amazing things are packed so closely together.

Around 6 pm I get back to the airport, return the car, check in my luggage and board the plane. I leave the Faroe Islands at 7 pm.

My layover in Copenhagen is far from perfect. I need to wait more than 14 hours for the flight to Krakow… I try to sleep through the night on a hard chair. A bench becomes free in the small hours… At 5, I’m woken by the security who tell me you’re not allowed to sleep here… I get up with a terrible pain in my neck. I eat my breakfast and lunch at Burger King… Two different set meals, and yet they taste the same...